For decades, collectors and divers alike have admired the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms—a timepiece that helped define the modern dive watch when it debuted in 1953. It was bold, rugged, and unapologetically professional, returning to the brand’s core line in 2003 with a case size that rarely dipped below 45mm. Yet for just as long, enthusiasts have been asking: would Blancpain ever create a smaller Fifty Fathoms? The answer, until now, had always been no.
That changed this September with the unveiling of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm, or more precisely, 38.2mm. For the first time, the watch once considered untouchable in size is being reimagined for all wrists, and in the process, it is opening the door to a wider audience that includes collectors who prefer more restrained proportions.
Blancpain’s decision is both surprising and carefully considered. Limited editions have flirted with smaller cases over the years, but a regular-production Fifty Fathoms under 40mm was nearly unthinkable. Many assumed that the existence of the Bathyscaphe line—already offered in more compact dimensions—was Blancpain’s quiet answer to persistent requests. But as the brand’s leadership has now acknowledged, the Fifty Fathoms itself deserved to evolve.
The new Automatique 38.2mm arrives in multiple variations, beginning with two models first presented as “ladies’” versions: one in brushed grade 23 titanium with a pink dégradé mother-of-pearl dial, the other in red gold with a smoky black dial. Both are powered by Blancpain’s Calibre 1153 automatic movement, offering an impressive 100-hour power reserve, and feature 300 metres of water resistance with an exhibition caseback.
Hot on their heels came three “genderless” models: a polished steel version with black dial and bezel, a titanium model with blue dial, and a red gold version with blue dial and sailcloth strap. Despite the variety of case metals and dial colors, each watch maintains the signature Fifty Fathoms design codes—broad luminous numerals, sword-like hands, and a unidirectional bezel.
In a nod to purists, Blancpain has omitted the date window from every 38.2mm model, making this the first Fifty Fathoms collection without one. It’s a detail sure to delight enthusiasts who prefer an uncluttered dial. Strap aficionados, however, may notice the unusual 19mm lug spacing, different from the 42mm and 45mm models, which could limit strap-swapping options.
While the caseback reveals the Calibre 1153 and its finely finished rotor, the case flank retains the engraved Fifty Fathoms logo—a subtle but important link to the model’s lineage. At 12mm thick, the case remains substantial but not oversized, making it a natural fit for daily wear rather than deep-sea missions.
This repositioning is deliberate. Though fully capable as a dive watch, the 38.2mm Automatique reads more as a versatile luxury sports watch. Its proportions lend themselves to everyday wear, and Blancpain makes no apologies for appealing to wrists that may have found the larger models unwieldy. As Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain, explained: “The Fifty Fathoms is much more than a diver’s watch, it’s a symbol of exploration and innovation. With the addition of new models, we’re responding to a clear demand while reaffirming that this collection was always meant for all wrists. It’s a natural and important evolution for a watch born underwater, made to be worn anywhere.”
That sentiment underscores the larger story. The Fifty Fathoms was never just about size—it was about setting a standard for professional diving when such standards barely existed. In the decades since, it has remained an icon of durability and purpose. By introducing the Automatique 38.2mm, Blancpain is not diluting that legacy but broadening it. The watch still looks and feels every bit the Fifty Fathoms, yet it acknowledges that exploration today doesn’t always mean squeezing over a wetsuit; sometimes it means moving seamlessly from boardroom to beach.
The debate among collectors will no doubt continue—does a smaller Fifty Fathoms dilute its professional image, or does it make the icon more accessible and therefore stronger? But one thing is certain: for the first time in more than 70 years, the Fifty Fathoms has become a truly universal dive watch, and Blancpain has made good on a request that many thought would never be answered.
