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Major Food Group Does It Again, in a Transporting Setting, With Dirty French Steakhouse

Anyone who doesn’t believe that dining has become synonymous with entertainment hasn’t been to Dirty French Steakhouse. With this fanciful Brickell bistro, a Ken Falk-designed hallucinatory throwback to the 1970s and ’80s (complete with Blondie on the playlist), Major Food Group continues its culinary domination of Miami.

After scoring hits with Sadelle’s, Hasalon, ZZ’s Club, and especially Carbone, the company’s trio (Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick) still has the vision and talent to surprise and delight. (Several of these concepts began in New York, and versions of Carbone, with its storied Greenwich Village origins, has also popped up in cities as diverse as Las Vegas, Dallas and Hong Kong.) Dirty French delivers delirium, and few restaurant groups show mastery of gastronomic dreams as does Major Food Group.

So, have a seat in your zebra-print dining chair and enjoy the show.

To peruse the menu is to know you’ll want to come back, because it’s replete with specialty dishes from another era: duck a l’orange. Chicken and crepes. Crab croquettes. Giant grilled oysters bourguignon. And we haven’t even gotten to the carnivores, who will gravitate to the Wagyu tomahawk and the 40-ounce porterhouse (both for two).

My friend and I, who like to share, opted for a mix of traditional delicacies and decadent standbys. In the case of the former, the crab Louis was prepared tableside, and the result was rich and delectable. For the latter, we savored the lobster ravioli with saffron. At our gregarious server’s request, we also shared a flaky mushroom milleuille—a milleuille is a layered puff pastry creation that’s typically reserved for desserts, but we scooped up this savory interpretation, a Dirty French signature. To complete our time travel back to Manhattan, circa 1980, we couldn’t resist the Dover sole meuniere.

It sounds like a lot of food, but we both appreciated the restrained portion size, which allowed us to revel in a feast of flavors without feeling overstuffed and uncomfortable at evening’s end. Then, only one question remained: Whether to return for the caviar Vichyssoise or head to Major Food Group’s next debut—Contessa, which just opened in the Miami Design District—first.

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Drew Limsky

Drew Limsky

Editor-in-Chief

BIOGRAPHY

Drew Limsky joined Lifestyle Media Group in August 2020 as Editor-in-Chief of South Florida Business & Wealth. His first issue of SFBW, October 2020, heralded a reimagined structure, with new content categories and a slew of fresh visual themes. “As sort of a cross between Forbes and Robb Report, with a dash of GQ and Vogue,” Limsky says, “SFBW reflects South Florida’s increasingly sophisticated and dynamic business and cultural landscape.”

Limsky, an avid traveler, swimmer and film buff who holds a law degree and Ph.D. from New York University, likes to say, “I’m a doctor, but I can’t operate—except on your brand.” He wrote his dissertation on the nonfiction work of Joan Didion. Prior to that, Limsky received his B.A. in English, summa cum laude, from Emory University and earned his M.A. in literature at American University in connection with a Masters Scholar Award fellowship.

Limsky came to SFBW at the apex of a storied career in journalism and publishing that includes six previous lead editorial roles, including for some of the world’s best-known brands. He served as global editor-in-chief of Lexus magazine, founding editor-in-chief of custom lifestyle magazines for Cadillac and Holland America Line, and was the founding editor-in-chief of Modern Luxury Interiors South Florida. He also was the executive editor for B2B magazines for Acura and Honda Financial Services, and he served as travel editor for Conde Nast. Magazines under Limsky’s editorship have garnered more than 75 industry awards.

He has also written for many of the country’s top newspapers and magazines, including The New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, Miami Herald, Boston Globe, USA Today, Worth, Robb Report, Afar, Time Out New York, National Geographic Traveler, Men’s Journal, Ritz-Carlton, Elite Traveler, Florida Design, Metropolis and Architectural Digest Mexico. His other clients have included Four Seasons, Acqualina Resort & Residences, Yahoo!, American Airlines, Wynn, Douglas Elliman and Corcoran. As an adjunct assistant professor, Limsky has taught journalism, film and creative writing at the City University of New York, Pace University, American University and other colleges.